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RESTAURANTS - CHEFS - HOTELS - REVIEWS & STORIES

 
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Restaurant Bernard Loiseau
Saulieu, Bourgogne, France.

The cuisine of Bernard Loiseau lives on today and is thriving. His second in command for 20 years at the time of Loiseau's death in 2003, Patrick Bertron, has not only continued the now classic Loiseau recipes, but with the spirit of Loiseau in his mind, he created new and exciting directions working closely with Mme. Dominique Loiseau.

Peter and Linda D'Aprix1995-2004 (update 2015)

Melon Soup Dining room Duck

Just a couple of hours drive south from Paris in the north western reaches of Bourgogne, this restaurant is within easy reach for lunch or dinner. Better yet, stay the night in the luxurious yet country styled rooms of the five star hotel, "Le Relais Bernard Loiseau", that is the home of the Loiseau restaurant and be relaxed about your meal and enjoying your wine. The service is a good as it ever was. M. Loiseau's wife controls everything including that is on the menu. One begins to realize that it was not just the passion and talent of M. Loiseau that made Relais Bernard Loiseau such a success but the abilities of his lovely and charming wife Dominique as well.

Filets de RougetsThere are not enough superlatives to describe Patrick Bertron’s food. He is of course carrying on Loiseau’s cuisine but adding his own creative stamp on superbly crafted and innovative dishes. Having worked at Loiseau's side for two decades from the time he first started his apprenticeship in a professional kitchen, he knew the cuisine of Loiseau perfectly since it was he, not loiseau, who was producing the food on a daily basis that Loiseau had masterminded. But both he and Dominique Loiseau felt that while part of the menu should retain the Loiseau signature dishes, the restaurant would grow stale if they just ground out the same menu year after year. If Loiseau was anything he was a man of intense creativity, passion and change.

Bertron's cuisine pays homage to that spirit and style but he is projecting it into the future with superbly crafted dishes with fun new tastes and concoctions but that never make the mistake, as so many young Pigeon rôtichefs do today, of gilding the lily with too many tastes on the plate often in conflict with each other. Instead, each dish is a marvelously balanced group of tastes, each complementing the other perfectly.

When we were there in 2004 (and we have followed this great restaurant since) we decided to sample the new menu. We found it delightfully unpretentious in its sophistication. Just masterfully conceived tastes and preparations eaten in a delightful room and polished yet friendly service. We also sampled the Classic Loiseau menu and enjoyed some of our favorite dishes from back in the 1990s. (See below for photos of the classic menu from our previous story coverage.)

After an excellent espresso "digestif" and, in my case, a tissane of rosemary and thyme, we agreed a walk around the strategically lit garden paths and a visit by our dog to his own garden spot would be in order after which we happily went off to our charming room and fell into bed.

From the Classic Loiseau Menu

Pigeon rôti

Grenouille

Filet de canard

Sea Bass

Lamb

Lamb

Recipe >>
Filet de canard

Artichokes

dessert

Sorbet.

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Le Relais Bernard Loiseau
2 rue dArgentine
21210 Saulieu
tel:011-33-(0)3.80.90.53.53
fax:011-33-(0)3.80.64.08.92
e-mail: loiseau@relaischateaux.fr
www.relaischateaux.fr/loiseau

 

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All rights reserved peter d'aprix ©1985-2017.
No copying, reuse or partial reproduction permitted without written permission by the authors, Peter and Linda D'Aprix.


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