M. Meneau has a culinary philosophy of combing on a plate something that grows in the "air" with something that grows in the earth. It is his "yin and yang". This is a novel and interesting approach. He will not serve, for example, two root vegetables together. Instead he pairs, say carrots with green beans. In 1999, Monsieur Meneau lost one of his 3 Michelin stars taken away from him. Personally, I believe this is unjust and undeserved. However, he earned it back in 2004. One can loose a Michelin star in France from a flaw in the walls, one too few coat hooks or an entrance way that no longer conforms to width demands. Who knows why they stole away a star but it could not be for the quality of the cuisine or the service or the lovely grounds and rooms.
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Light drenched dining room of L'Espérance
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Remarkable olive and black truffle dish |
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If you have the pleasure of a meal at L'Espérance, you will find this creative alchemist's food superb. Although at times a but rich for our California tastes, all the dishes we sampled were executed superbly and perfectly served. Like many of France's finest chefs, he grows many of his own vegetable and herbs in a garden hidden from view behind ancient ten foot high walls. He established the "potager" in the mid '80's but it looks as though it has been there for centuries.
The lovely, airy dining room overlooks the garden and since it is built as green house with walls of glass plate, it is a pleasure rain or shine. Which is just as well since Burgundy gets it plentiful share of rain year round. But whether you are blessed with sun to wander the gardens with their complement of statuary or just get to view it from inside, you will do so with some of the most excellent service we have encountered. A perfect balance of professionalism and friendly cheerfulness, it makes the old, trite myth of the arrogant snobbery of French service firmly in the history books where it belongs.
All the rooms are pleasant and perfectly equipped but the most wonderful ones are in the old mill annexes across the road from the main building. They are tranquil, serene with polished antiques and crisp delightful country fabrics. With the old open beamed ceilings and centuries old terra cotta tiles on the floor, it is difficult to leave this enchanting spot.
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Exterior of bedroom window in annex, a former mill.
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Amuse Bouche - melon sautéed in walnut oil with bitter green
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Interior of same window. |
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Statue at end of avenue of trees |
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One of many bridges over the parallel mill streams that flank the avenue of trees in the garden |
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Another of the many statues in the garden |
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Recently, 2005, M. Meneau has widened his horizons and purchased a delightful new propertly only an hour's drive away, closer to Paris, that he has designed to be very different from l'Esperance. It is called Château and Domaine de Roncemay. It is an interesting departure but no less interesting. It has an 18 hole golf course, spa, charming hotel and excellent restaurant offering high quality cuisine but neither in the league of l'Esperane for 3 star ambitions nor the resulting impact on the purse. He situation one of his talented young chefs from l'Esperance in the kitchens and together they developed a lighter, faster cuisine served in a light and airy dining room that overlooks the golf course.
With 325 acres of park and wood land to explore, tennis, pétanque, couple of "Hamman" style Morocan steam rooms, massage and body and skin treatments, this is a place that is easy and fast to get to from Paris and is perfect for men and women alike. Dogs welcome! more >>
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