Hotel Le Maquis, Corsica *****

Le Maquis, One Of The Few Hotels
Of Quality on the Island

Peter and Linda D'Aprix

Le Maquis" may well be the most luxurious example of the best to arise from this fascinating land. The hotel is named after the rugged chaparral that covers the harsh landscape consisting mostly of rock roses, mastic trees and heather. "Le Maquis" has adopted as its symbol, the rifle carried by the back country peasants who sometimes are freedom fighters, sometimes bandits, sometimes ... well, writers of novels cover their character well. "Le Maquis" is also a colloquialism for the romantic bandits of legend who have maintained the fierce Corsican identity through the waves of invaders who imposed their rule, control and inevitably taxes over the land.

The owner, proprietor and creator of "Le Maquis Hotel/Restaurant" was born in the fishing village of Porticcio just a few hundred yards from "Le Maquis". In nineteen forty eight, she bought the land for the hotel, including the beach, and laid the first blocks to build the inn of her dreams. Madame Catherine Salini had grown up on the edge of the sea. Fish was plentiful but not much else. At twenty five, she had left her beloved island and gone to Paris to make her fortune as so many before her. She established a restaurant specializing in Corsican cuisine which prospered and allowed her over the years to eventually breath life into this dream of hers that had been growing in her mind and heart.

Her years in the Parisian restaurant business, the sophistication capital of the world, had equipped her well to create an upscale hostelry. But it was going to be one that had its roots and thus its charm in her own cultural style. It was not going to be a transplanted clone of Paris, London or Rome. Instead, it was going to express the architecture, soul and texture of Corsica, but in "chic rustique".

Each room is unique and has its own color scheme. The grounds are filled with Mediterranean pine trees, paths, waterfalls of bougainvillea, huge clay pots of cascading geraniums, stone carved lion faces spouting water into pools below. Shade and dappled sunlit bowers and paths abound. The warm winds carry the special scents of Corsican landscape, the sweet sun-aroused aroma of maquis herbs mixed with the dusty fragrance of dry country paths blended with whiffs of salty sea air as the breeze tacks about. We're talking about the environment but as you will see later, we are also describing the food.

Le Maquis is a tonic for the stressed out or just for those wanting to get away from it all to really let down. The private beach is raked every few hours and is spotless. Meals are served outside on the terrace overlooking the sea and the bay. The evening sun drops behind Ajaccio and its palette is mirrored from the salt water and from the swimming pool for the pleasure of the dinners. If the weather refuses to cooperate, the large country dinning room lined with French doors is no hardship.

Citrus dessert served on the private terrace of the room.

Typical room with exposed beams, French doors leading to the sea and terra cotta tiled floors.

Gérard is in charge of the hotel's restaurant "L'Arbousier". He was born the year before the first blocks were laid for the hotel. At 18 he took the boat to France where he studied at the École Hotelière de Nice. On graduation in 1968, he started work at the Hotel Carlton in Cannes then moved on to the Hotel Negresco in Nice in 1969. He furthered his experience at the Crown Hotel in London, England in 1970 and two years later returned to Corsica to became the Commis de Cuisine and the Chef de Partie of Le Maquis until 1977 when he took over the post he occupies today of the Chef d'Hotel le Maquis. Due to the intercontinental character of his guests, he offers a range of dishes that satisfy most tastes, but that his favorite are reworked traditional recipes of his island.

However, even those more traditional to the mainland he renders with a Corsican flair by the use of local herbs, maquis flavored meats and other ingredients that carry the unique flavors of the island. Clearly with the sea at the steps of his kitchen, the menu has a major focus on fish and seafood. But the style of serving and cooking relies on the succulent natural flavor of the freshest fish rather than that of sauces. His waiters present a tray of the day's catch to the guests' tables. You not only pick your fish but you request just how you wish it prepared. He favors simple barbecuing over a fire of local maquis wood, but also offers any preparation the guest wishes.

Wild boar is an island favorite as is chestnut fed game. Partridge and other wild fowl abound. Aged and smoked meats and sausage are an island specialty. Chestnuts are plentiful, they are ground into flour and are used in many desserts. "Brocciu" cheese can be either from goat or sheep ranging from the freshest light and moist daily made cheeses to pungent aged varieties. The polenta (pulenta in Corsica) is similar to Italian polenta but made from the chestnut flour. Juniper berries and Myrtle are frequently used. Olives and olive oil from the clinging terraces of the mountainsides feature prominently as do hams and course-cut smoked bacon. The maquis fed lamb is tender and succulent from its free range mountainside habitat. With the new wine making techniques available today, the island boasts of many excellent wineries. We tried whites, rosés and reds and were not disappointed. "Clos Capitoro" a winery in Porticcio was delicious and almost within walking distance.

Our lunch started with "Carpaccio Loup Basilic" but is also often made using Dorade, Saint-Pierre and Rouget depending on the fishermen's catch. Served cold it makes a refreshing start to a meal on a warm day sitting under an umbrella at the side of the pool looking over the Mediterranean sipping a crisp "blancs de Vermentino" from Clos Capitoro filled with the nuances of honey and maquis flowers. We moved on to Gérard's "Frittata Bruccio" often made as an omelet as well. Light in texture but rich with the Bruccio cheese it evokes the country dishes eaten around the hill village firesides. Next came a hearty dish more suited to spring or fall than summer, his very traditional "Râgout d'Oignon aux Oeuf Mollets". A magnificent dish designed to restore the energy for toiling country folk. Filled with smoked, thick-cut bacon, olive oil and onions it was rich and tasty. This required Clos Capitoro Rosé that while crisp was up to the challenge. For those who might find this dish too hearty, a very fine but no less rich foie gras dish "Foie Frais Cuit en Terrine" was offered with either a jam or compote of fresh figs. This called for a smooth red from Ajaccio "Domaine Compte Peraldi".

Our digestive processes were given a rest with the next dishes, a pair of fish plates "Mustelle Frite" often served as "Mustelle Meunière" and "Capon au Four Tianu à l'Ajaccienne" or "Caponeà l'Ajaccienne" for short. Both dishes light and simple to prepare and perfect for any season of the year. After a turn on the beach, we returned to continue our meal in the cool under the awning. A savory "Roulé d'Agneau à l'Istretu avec Polenta de Maïs" was waiting for us. The lamb was barely cooked in the French manner; plump and so tender a knife was almost unnecessary, the flesh unique in flavor from the maquis habitat. I was disappointed not to sample the traditional "pulenta" made from chestnut flour but the Italian version was superb. The Clos Capitoro Rosé made a second appearance and balanced well with the lamb, filled with many of the complementary maquis flavors. Another day the lamb might be served with poppy seeds, garlic toast and mushrooms and tomatoes. The next it could be stuffed with rosemary sauce and served with a bean stew.

By this time we were ready to crash under an umbrella on the beach and lay supine, but we were forestalled by the "Pigeonneau". Served on a bed of "Spaghettini de Courgettes" and cloaked with more coarse chopped smoked bacon and baked garlic cloves, it was superb. The "Pigeonneau" appears from day to day and season to season in different incarnations. Sometimes it puts in an appearance with cauliflower, sometimes it is baked in a cast iron pot, other times it materializes as a fricassée. His duck, like the pigeonneau, one time will be served as a fillet with apples and Muscatellu sauce the next as a breast with apples and spiced caramel.

While this may not be Haute Cuisine, who cares. It is a sophisticated cuisine that has been distilled from the traditions of centuries of grandmothers using local, very fresh ingredients harvested at their peak. It is a blend of available products, salt water fish on the coast, freshwater trout inland, olive oil, goat cheeses and meat, preserved meats and game all with the unique tastes of the maquis running through them.

One way of experienceing Corsica is by way of a small tour company, Kalliste Tours, owned and run by a native born Corsican who now lives in California. His tours are small (10-14 people only) and explore the hidden corners and the people of Corsica that only a native could provide access to. You can put yourself in the capable hands of M. France Louvet http://www.kallistetours.com or email at: FranceLV@kallistetours.com