RESTAURANTS - CHEFS - HOTELS - REVIEWS & STORIES

Hotel Château de la Messardière *****, Hotel & Spa
on a hill top just outside St. Tropez, Cote d'Azur, France

Often referred to as "The Palace on the Hill", Château de la Messardiere is a fabulous five star sprawling hotel with a view over the bay of St. Tropez on one side and on the other the beaches and Mediterranean sea as well as the green quilt of vineyards and wineries of Ramatuelle in the valley below. It has very recently been given a complete make over which never stops so now it is also the "Shining Jewel on the Hill". Its 45 suites and 75 rooms are contained in a variety of different levels, annexes and square pill boxes around the 25 acres of gardens as well as in the original château with its 4 round towers.

Peter and Linda D'Aprix 2012-2014
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Château de la Messardiere is located outside of the fishing village (yes there are still fishermen with their nets in St. Tropez) but within a stone's throw and the hotel has a regular shuttle to take you anywhere in town without the worry of parking, then will pick you back up. A few years ago the hotel was down at the heels but new management has spruced the entire place up from tower to toe, installed a series of fine chefs in their fine Restaurant "L'Acacia” who, no matter from what corner of the country they hail, all embrace the cornucopia of regional produce and tastes and turn out dishes that are superb. Our story here features the cuisine of the chef in residence at the time of our visit and photography in 2014, but the administration insists on the best, so while the chef may change, the style may vary a bit, but the quality does not. We enjoyed the excellent cuisine of Chef David Millet and he allowed us to a video his preparation of one of his signature dishe "Le Saint-Pierre Cuisiné en Gravlax". (see videos >>)

With its luxurious spa, gardens, pools and peace, it is the ideal place for a get-away but close enough to the night life to dance till sunrise at the "Caves du Roi" if you so prefer and then sleep it off in quiet.

With its Umbrella Pines scenting the air and providing framing for the tableau of vistas and its 25 acres of immaculate gardens, pathways, statuary and fountains and even a duck pond that supplies a chorus of frog song to lull you to sleep, as well as the Château's own honey bees and their honey, it almost does not need the recently installed spa with its Jacuzzi, indoor pool, steam rooms, treatments of all kinds, massage and exercise gym. But they are there. The spa even has its own terrace and water garden. (You never get far from the soothing sound of water squirting, falling or burbling on this property.) The Spa uses both "La Prairie" and "Cinq Monde" products due to their high quality and purity. Beauty treatments are available as well as a full time hair dresser who is on staff making it easy to enjoy the beach, spa and pool and still arrive at dinner perfectly coiffed.

The Château is an official French Bird Protection Reserve and their song too soothes the soul with the occasional brace of sea gulls voicing their complaints. Nestled in and among the trees, bushes and lush plantings are winding pathways with benches for sitting and soaking up this rare property and with its un-matched views watched over by the stone and terra cotta statuary with the occasion bronze to keep them honest. With the hot sun, the perfumes of the pines mingle with that of the lavender. Truly a place of the sense. (You may be getting the idea that we love this place!)

The lobby and public areas are rich in color and grandeur. Stained glass windows, mosaics and elegant fabrics create a richness seldom experienced not to mention the Persian carpets scattered outside to sooth the feet over heated by the hot pool area tile. The outdoor terrace for dining is vast and looks out over the beaches of Pampelonne. On a warm evening with delicious food and wines along with its breathtaking views, it is indeed magical especially as the light begins to fade and change, so do the views. It is a mesmerizing entertainment between courses. Twilight falls and the candles are lit. It is also impossibly romantic. In the morning, breakfast is also served here with a lovely buffet. The early sun shines right into the terrace, so you have a completely different visual experience along with your "pain au chocolat" and coffee.

The large pool is surrounded by a much larger sun terrace filled with rattan furniture so it becomes part pool area and part outside lounge. There is a pool bar and food service from the "La Terrasse" restaurant. With wifi everywhere you can spoil yourself and keep in touch with the office if you absolutely, positively have to. Or not.