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The cuisine of valley native Chef Pascal Ginoux, one Michelin star, is marvelous. Our lunch was so delicious it would have been difficult to top it anywhere. Served outside the on the flagstone terrace in dappled springtime sunshine, it was heaven on earth. With a view out over the valley, the sent of lavender, wild thyme and sage wafting by, just the setting was heaven. Add to that an immaculate meal at once simple and sophisticated with the tastes and preparation balanced to perfection, bursting with the tastes of Provence - one could not ask for more. The restaurant is part of Hotel Les Bories near the hilltop village of Gordes.
The meal started with two large scallops that melted in the mouth, sitting on a bed of finely chopped zucchini prepared with a balsamic sauce. This was followed first with a display to the diners of the rack of lamb baked in a cast-iron pot set with herbs from the garden and served with its own juices. Designed to set the digestive juices flowing, it succeeded! When served, it was accompanied by a medley of perfectly cooked garden vegetables mostly whole and identifiable. Crusty home-baked bread complemented the dish as well as a delightful crisp local rosé.
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Click on the photos where the mouse turn into a hand to see large versions.
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Lunch al fresco on the terrace.
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With the sun warming the air, the gentle breezes off the hillsides filled with the scents of wild thyme, rosemary and sage, this was a dream lunch.
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Personal attention is displayed by such touches as the server bringing out the rack of lamb as it is individually backed for each guest.
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Roast ST. Jaques on a finely chopped bed of zuchinni and olives.
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Fabulous kitchen backed breads.
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Rack on lamb baked with herbs and smoked, served with a melange of fresh vegetables.
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Fresh cherry dessert - Clafoutis with pistacio, poached with Sarriette essential oil and as a sorbet with a rich, thick syrop topped with vanilla foam.
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The dessert was a grouping of cherry renditions. Warm from the oven was the Cherry Clafuitis served as a long “baguette” à la pistache. Alongside was an assortment of other cherry mini-desserts from stewed cherries with sarriette, a cherry sorbet and a cream of cherry warm purée topped with vanilla cream.
This is the sort of simple meal you look for in a country establishment and is increasingly hard to find as so many chefs are indulging themselves in tricked up taste combinations, foie gras with everything and renditions so precious.
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Dinner in the Bories Dining rooms.
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Dessert - Granny Smith apple as a mousse in a caramel shell with a sorbet of coconut and a little herb jelly.
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Dessert - Granny Smith apple as a mousse in a caramel shell with a sorbet of coconut and a little herb jelly.
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La Royale de Foie Blond
with bits of asparagus in a bullion emulsion of truffle juice.
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On a biscuit made with olive oil with a compote of apricots sit mellon balls with a melon sorbet, all topped with a thin "wafer" of calisson.
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Executive Chef Pascal Ginoux sitting outside his kitchens.
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Amuse Bouche of spicy Italian meat ball on a nut puree.
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Main dish of fish Roast Lotte with fennel mix in an light emulsion sauce of its own juices.
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Glass of strawberry puree, cream topped with sliced strawberries, lemon sorbet and small pistacio mini-cake.
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Dinner is a far more formal affair served in the “borie” dining room or, on warm summer nights, on the terrace. Here Chef Ginoux shows the talent that earned him his Michelin star. Any pretext at sophisticated country cooking disappears. Dinner is a meal filled with creativity, artistry, and unusual flavor matching. It will win many hearts but perhaps not all. The wine waiter is not only enthusiastic about the best of local wines but very knowledgable, and will not steer you wrong. His sense of matching the wine to the meal is unerring.
Our dinner started with a spicy Italian meatball on a nut purée. This was followed by small round of foie gras a “La Royale de Foie Blond”with bits of asparagus in a bullion emulsion of truffle juice. Small and intense, it was delicious although if I never see an emulsion again it will be too soon. But my attention was diverted by the enjoyment of a deep red rosé, Domaine du Tix, recommended by the wine waiter. A serious rosé of more complexity than the wonderful light, crisp beverage rosés we are accustomed to.
We moved onto a dish of roast Lotte with fennel. The fish was superb although the match with the fennel was perhaps not quite the best marriage. The melon dessert was an orchestra of the essence of melon in many forms from balls to purée to sorbet with ”pancake” below and a crispy cap on top.
A most interesting meal and one that will not leave you letting out your belt; truly a complement to the spa in the next building.
"Restaurant Les Bories" - Hotel Les Bories
Route de l'abbaye de Senanque
84220 Gordes, France
Tél. +33 (0)4.90.72.00.51
Fax +33 (0)4.90.72.01.22
e-mail:resa@hotellesbories.com
Web Page: www.hotellesbories.com
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